Ask The Skinxpert

Climate Change Skincare

2010-10-26T12:12:00.000-07:00

Dear Adriana,
Soon I will be relocating to Dallas, Texas from Seattle, Washington, and I am concerned what this life change and climate change will do to my skin. Any ideas?
Thank you!
Alison

Hi Alison,
You are absolutely right. Stress of a move mixed with a new climate can be a recipe for a skin disaster. Your skin will undoubtedly go through a difficult transition period during the move and it could last anywhere from a few weeks to many months.
First important thing to do is to combat stress. Stress and breakouts have a direct link because of hormones that are released by the brain when stress is perceived. As usual, these hormones increase oil production, oil fills up the pores, pores are sealed by layers of dead skin, bacteria grows, and Whamo! Big problem.

Texas has generally mild winters but you can count on very warm and very humid summers. We know heat increases sweat production, and because of the effects humidity, that sweat isn't able to evaporate. The sweat mixes with oil, bacteria, make-up, and sunscreen, and the result is a slippery, face clogging mess!

So, luckily there are lots of things you can do to combat this new, fun situation!

You will want to use a gentle clarifying cleanser. As I've mentioned before, I really like the brand Murad. They have a nice clarifying cleanser that uses salicylic acid to kill bacteria, and everyone I've talked to whose used it likes it because it doesn't make your skin super dry.
For those out there who prefer products with all naturally derived ingredients, no preservatives or parabens, my favorite new line is called Starflower Essentials. It is made right there in Texas and it is fabulous! Starflower has a Grapefruit Cream Cleanser that is wonderfully decongesting and detoxifying. It uses witch hazel, aloe vera, dandelion and hops, is gentle and effective, and it is so pure you could eat it!

In addition to your cleanser, you will probably want to use an astringent. Astringents are used to kill surface bacteria, remove cleanser residue and excess oil, and constrict the pores. It is of the utmost importance to choose an astringent that is alcohol free. Witch hazel is a wonderful choice. It has been used for hundreds of years to treat bruises, bumps, swelling, and skin lesions, so it's one of those super remedies that can do just about anything. Be careful, lots of bottles of witch hazel have a high alcohol content, which you do not want, so read the ingredient list.

Maybe look for an astringent that also contains lavender (balancing and antibacterial,) citrus (decongesting) or my all-time super favorite, ROSEMARY! Rosemary is amazing for its abilities to fight infection, regenerate tissue, increase circulation, and promote cellular detoxification. Love, love, love rosemary.

When selecting a moisturizer, remember you want something light. An SPF is nice, but always remember SPF's only stay active for 2 hours on your skin, so it's not your protection for the day. Also, many people report SPF in their moisturizer makes it feel heavier or oilier, so it may be best to choose one without.

For sunscreen, what I think everyone should be using, is mineral powder. More companies are popping up with the most convenient powder applicator ever: The powder is in a tube, with an applicator brush on one end. You carry it in your purse, and can bust a little out any time you need it. They are usually SPF 30, most are broad spectrum protection (protection from UVA and UVB) some come tinted, but most are translucent. Eminence Organics has one, as does Peter Thomas Roth and Colorscience.

After the move, and while you are getting settled in, your skin will be doing some settling in, too, and you may experience breakouts. Any time you change skincare products there is an adjustment period. Your skin hates change, and will protest. Be patient. Be consistent. Be gentle. Your life and your skin will calm down and (hopefully!) you will enjoy many fun years in your new home!

Verana Day Spa, Yelapa, Mexico

2010-03-28T08:11:00.000-07:00

While visiting Mexico this past week I had the opportunity to visit a spa that is heralded as Mexico's best Destination spa by numerous travel, spa and beauty magazines. Called the Jungle spa at the Verana Resort, it is located high on a mountain in Yelapa, Mexico, and is reachable only by boat.

I made my spa reservation via telephone before I left the U.S..

A helpful woman named Christina Yugo assisted by answering my questions. I was asked to pay in full for the total cost of the service (I would be receiving the Ginger body scrub) and the cost of the water taxi that would pick me up from, and bring me back to Boca de Tomatlan, a town which is a 20 minute boat ride away from the spa. The cost of the exfoliation is $100, and the boat taxi would be $25. I was happy to oblige.

Upon arriving in Boca De Tomatlan, I was surprised to learn that boat taxis to and from Yelapa cost only $6.00 either way. I emailed the spa to request a refund on my $25 and to let them know I would be enlisting my own taxi. I was told that regular boat taxis are not allowed to pick up and drop off at the Verana dock. Paying the $25 for their boat was my only option. This outrageous fee for a boat definitely made me feel taken advantage of, and I was left with a negative feeling for the spa.

The Day of my treatment I was on the beach waiting for my water taxi that finally arrived 20 minutes late, making me nervous I would be late for my treatment, let alone have any time to relax and enjoy the spa amenities before my treatment began.

After a boat ride down the beautiful Mexican coastline I finally reached the Verana dock. I was greeted by a friendly American who would escort me on the 15 minute hike up hill to the resort. It was a hot day, and was given a glass of ice water once we made it to the resort, which was greatly appreciated. I arrived just in time for my service, and was asked to sit for a moment and wait for my service provider.

Verana is a tropical splendor, gorgeously landscaped with thatched roof palapas and windingg paths through tropical foliage. There are chase lounges where one can look out onto the amazing Pacific ocean, and a beautiful swimming pool, where I saw one other guest, basking in the warm southern rays.

The website for the spa claims that each service begins with a foot bath and a cup of tea. I was offered neither. I paid no mind to not being offered the tea, but a foot bath would have been wonderfully therapeutic for my beat-up, tired feet, not to mention nice for the practitioner who would soon have to touch them!!

Momentarily my practitioner, Lupita, arrived to greet me and I followed her into the gorgeous outside treatment room. As my treatment began I relaxed into the table, eased into a gentle drift by Lupita's confident hands. My body was rocked and my muscles pulled into alignment, while generous amounts of essential oil was applied to my hair; a beautiful beginning ritual to the treatment. The exfoliation to follow was lovely, salt was scrubbed briskly over the back of my body, then removed with warm towels.

After the salt was removed, a warm coconut milk rinse was applied with a paint brush. I then heard Lupita's sweet whisper in my ear to "please turn over," and the front of my body was exfoliated and brushed with the warm milk mixture. Unfortunately, Lupita was not able to remove all the salt on my back and I found myself laying on a damp sheet, the tiny crystals of salt digging into my skin.

Following my exfoliation , I was instructed to rinse off in the beautiful outside shower and get dressed. I luxuriated in the shower, enjoying my lovely rock wall surroundings. As I dried off, I realized the hydrating coconut milk that had been applied to my body was now rinsed down the drain. I emerged from my treatment sad; The Verana Jungle Spa website declares, "All body treatments are followed by an effleurage massage to leave you feeling relaxed and refreshed." No such massage was offered to me.

I am disappointed that my experience at Verana Jungle Spa did not live up to the experience I was led to believe I would have. If claims are make on their website, every guest should receive those extras and services. The foot baths, the tea, and the finishing effleurage massages are the added extras that turn a fine spa experience into a wonderful spa experience, and consistency is key.

Verana leaves me still searching for that exemplar spa experience I know exists...where will I look next?

Response to Facial Exercises

2010-02-10T11:58:00.000-08:00

Hi,
I enjoyed your article against face exercises. I have noticed that I have improved my skin tone by light massage on my face.Let me tell you what I'm doing and see what you think, I drink green tea, distilled water, exercise, take a hair skin and nail vitamin, light message on skin, always wear sun screen and usually wear a hat though rarely get in the sun. I'm in my 30s now but I like to eat raw foods as well.So you think its ok to do light message of the face to get the blood to the tissue. I have heard this actually work at stimulating hair growth, I also take Shin Min DHT blocker, for my hair line which is high in zinc and really has thickened my hair.

Thanks,
Travis

Hi Travis,Thanks for your response!
Sounds to me like you doing a great job of taking care of yourself !!! A few things to remember: Your sunscreen is only stable on your skin for 2 hours after application. So, if you are outside for an extended period of time, remember to reapply! Yes, light massage upward and outward (defying gravity) is great for blood flow. It may help stimulate hair growth and it certainly can't hurt. Hair growth is a toughie and I am happy to hear you have had some success!You haven't mentioned what you are using to cleanse and moisturize. My suggestion is to use something from a spa. Spa quality products are more expensive because they have a higher concentration of active ingredients, are super concentrated, and aren't full of preservatives, fillers, and alcohol like store brand products are. You will use much less, thus using a bottle for much longer, and the cost will equal out. I love Murad or Eminence Organics and Aveda if you are into the organics. I commend you on your excellent skincare regimen! Thanks for your interest in my article!

In Health,
Adriana

Facial Exercise Does Not work

2010-02-10T11:55:00.000-08:00

Keeping our facial contours toned is an important aspect of total body health and key to maintaining a
youthful appearance. Logging hours of cardio workouts and strength training will provide a fit
physique, but forgetting to focus above the neck will undoubtedly leave you with loose, sagging facial
contours that don't match the rest of your hot body.
In an increasingly information-accessible world we are bombarded with information on how to stay
looking younger longer. The question has become: Should we exercise our facial muscles the same
way we exercise the rest of the muscles in our bodies? From “facial yoga” to “facial building,” many
people promote facial exercise programs, and the discussion of whether or not exercising facial
muscles actually improves facial firmness has become the subject of hot debate.
Although the idea has been around for years, there are still no scientific studies to support these claims.
The fact is that lack of muscle tone is not the cause of sagging skin on the face. Lax facial contours are
actually attributed to two major causes: loss of the skin supporting structure collagen, and from
repetitive movement, most commonly in the forehead, between the brows and around the mouth,
neither of which can be improved by exercising facial muscles. In fact, skeptics will tell you that doing
facial “exercises” can actually contribute to wrinkles.
The major cause of lax facial contours is the breakdown of collagen fibers which have deteriorated over
time, primarily from years of sun exposure. Collagen fibers are long structural proteins that support
most of the bodies tissues and gives cells their external structure. It is responsible for skin strength
and elasticity, and once collagen is gone, it is almost impossible to replace. Vitamin C is essential for
the synthesis of new collagen. As our bodies do not naturally produce this vitamin, it is important to
include it in our diets. In addition, using topical vitamin C in a skincare regimen may help.
Unfortunately, topical vitamin C (known as L-ascorbic acid) must be used in high concentrations to be
effective in the formation of new collagen. The product must contain 10% L-ascorbic acid, and in this
high of a concentration it is known to be irritating to most people's skin. These may be disappointing
revelations, but the fight against wrinkles is not entirely fruitless. Making a commitment to staying out
of the sun and drinking lots of water will help keep skin firm, hydrated, and youthful-looking.
The leading reason facial exercise programs are at best ineffective and at worst may even cause
wrinkles is due to the fact that moving the skin is actually what causes it to sag. The best way to never
get wrinkles is to simply never move your face. Since we all move our faces a million different ways a
million times a day, it makes no sense that a few extra minutes of movement every day will make any
major improvement. Most facial exercise programs include tensing and working areas of your face to
supposedly alleviate laugh lines, frown lines, and lines around the eyes and in the forehead. These
movements only increase tension in these areas, and can effectively increase the lines.
The best way then, to release these tense facial muscles, is through massage. Using your hands to
gently separate and loosen the muscles can greatly improve the tone of your skin. Added benefits of
massaging above your neck include, but are certainly not limited to, the relief of tension headaches,
sinus congestion and stress. You will also be stimulating the lymphatic system which, most glorious of
all, slows the aging process.
When performing self facial massage, make sure you take a few moments initially to relax. Close your
eyes and breathe deeply, visualizing fresh oxygen traveling all throughout your face. In order to work
against gravity, always move in upward and outward motions. With your fingers, gently work your
areas of concern. You should be able to feel the muscles surrounding the facial lines. Gently pull them
apart and smooth them out. In general, large upward sweeping motions from the base of the neck to
hairline will relax the face and create a youthful, rosy glow. If you want to focus on lines between the
brows, use your index and middle fingers, starting at the inside corner of the brows and firmly slide
out. For forehead lines use the same fingers, laid on top of the lines, quickly vibrating up and down
while sliding outwards. Try these movements each morning when applying moisturizer and sunscreen.
Watch tension lines melt away and luminosity return!
There is no magic exercise to improve sagging skin on our faces, but by taking simple action to protect
our faces from environmental damage such as staying out of the sun, making sure our diets are high in
vitamin C, and drinking plenty of water, we can keep it healthy and strong. Most importantly, be aware
of how you deal with stress. Don't allow it to lodge itself between your eyebrows or in your forehead
and you can enjoy decades of firm, youthful skin.

Skincare for swimmers

2010-01-26T13:44:00.000-08:00

Dear Adriana,

I am taking a swim class twice a week and ow! my skin is sad! I have been trying to get all of the chlorine off, cleansing and moisturizing after swimming, but I wonder if you had any other suggestions. I have switched to a more gentle cleanser and a dry-skin moisturizer and that seems to have helped but I am still having some odd dry spots, oily spots and breakouts. HELP!

A: First of all, it's a good idea to be conscious about how you are drying off after your swim. Make sure to gently pat dry, instead of rubbing. That way, when you go to apply your moisturizer, you will have a bit of water left on the skin. Your moisturizer will lock that water in, and that's a great thing.

From what I've read, the chlorine in the swimming pool is not what is causing your problems, but the prolonged immersion in water. Water breaks down and removes the protective layer of oil that sits on the surface of your skin. Without that protective layer, your skin looses all its moisture and is exposed to irritating elements (chlorine!) I believe you are having oily patches because when you strip the surface oil away your oil glands go into over-production mode to try to compensate. So, you are dry, irritated, and patchy oily. (But I be you have a hot body from all that swimming!) We need to try to bring your skin back into balance.

Immediately after reading your concern, the first thing I thought was, "she needs Sweet Red Rose." I love Sweet Red Rose Whip moisturizer. It is from the Eminence Organic skincare line and is incredibly soothing and hydrating. It contains Sweet Red Rose Petals, Sweet Red Rose Extract, and an antioxidant booster of Vitamin A, Vitamin C Ester, Vitamin E, Coenzyme Q10, Alpha Lipoic Acid. It is just wonderful. Eminence Organics is a pricier line, but is incredibly pure and concentrated, a tiny little bit goes a long way, so it lasts a very, very long time. I believe there is nothing better you could use.

There are protective creams formulated specifically for swimmers. You put them on before entering the water and it acts as a barrier. I have never tried them, so I can't tell you if it works, but this one from Mario Badescu uses beeswax and peanut oil, sounds lovely, and is only $20.00, so it wouldn't be a huge investment. Here's the link if you would like to read about it: http://www.mariobadescu.com/protective-cream-for-swimming#cr

For fun at home you could mix up a soothing mask from ingredients you have right in your own kitchen! Use ingredients such as honey, aloe vera, avocado, banana, and oatmeal! You could splurge on some vitamin E gel caps at your local health food store, pop one or two in, mix it up, slather it on, and you have an amazing soothing and hydrating mask!

Neckline Slimmer- gimmick or revolutionary device?

2010-01-06T12:25:00.000-08:00

OK. Let's discuss this. I've seen it on TV for a while now. This product is called the "neckline slimmer" So, you are supposed to use it if you want to reduce fat under your chin. I am not a exercise expert, but would you agree that spot reducing fat is not possible? It is very noticable on the product's site that all the before and after pictures are of people who have lost a significant amount of weight. Seems to me this product is a gimmick profiting off women's fears of aging.This product has nothing to do with firming loose, saggy skin. I stand firm that exercising facial muscles does not lift or firm loose facial skin. Perhaps if a person has little to no fat covering the muscles in the neck, nor loose skin drooping down, a peson could do these exerrcises to improve tone and strength, thus changing the look of their neck.What do you think????????????...

Adult Acne

2009-12-22T18:49:00.000-08:00

Q: Dear Adriana, I am a 39 year old woman who, for most of my life, has had clear skin. Even through my pregnancy 4 years ago my skin was great. About one year ago my face and neck started breaking out. I’m so frustrated; I look like my 13 year old niece! I keep trying different acne washes and scrubs but nothing helps. Why is this happening? Is there anything I can do to clear it up?

A: Later in life acne conditions are incredibly common, and incredibly frustrating. Just because we aren’t teenagers anymore doesn’t mean we can’t be subjected to physically and emotionally painful breakouts. Many factors contribute to acne, including stress, pollution, medication, allergies, and hormonal imbalances.
I will encourage you to search for skincare products that are specifically designed for slightly more mature skin. Forget the store brand acne products such as Neutrogena, Clean and Clear, and Proactive. They are all designed to treat teenage breakouts and the overproduction of oil associated with that. You wouldn’t wear the clothes your kids wear, same goes for their skincare products, too! Later in life breakouts usually do not include the symptom of over production of oil, and the use of these products can strip your skin of the oil it needs to protect and heal itself. There are definitely lines out there with great products to treat your specific situation because you, my dear, are not alone. Murad Skincare has an Anti-Aging Acne Treatment designed to clear up mature skin. It is a treatment product you put on after cleansing and before your moisturizer. Eminence Organics also has a whole line called Eight Greens Phyto which works to balance hormones and clarify your skin. Included are a treatment product, moisturizer and masque, that when paired with the right cleanser can work wonders! These products will cost more than store brand products, but please remember the price is higher because you are getting a much higher concentration of active ingredients. Your product will last much longer and be much more effective.
Now once you’ve gotten the right cleanser, you are on the right track trying exfoliation to clear your breakouts. Kudos! Exfoliation is an incredibly important step in clearing breakouts. It rids the dead layer of skin blocking access to the pores and allows for oxygen and treatment products to help heal. Now, I’d like to persuade you to not use a scrub. Abrasive scrubs create microscopic tears and irritation. They are much too rough for the sensitive skin on our faces. Please look into enzyme exfoliants that you can do at home twice a week. Look for an enzyme mask that contains either papain (papaya) or bromelain (pineapple.) Enzymes are amazing! They gently digest dead skin cells, leaving the healthy ones alone. Even better, if you would like to go the next step, invest in a glycolic peel series at a spa. Glycolic acid can be incredibly effective and will speed up your clearing process. Usually a series of 4 to 6, once a week, in addition to a great at-home regimen can work wonders. If you really love scrubs and the way your skin feels after a good polish, make sure the scrubbing agent in the product is man –made. You want the spheres to be perfectly rounded so they won’t tear your skin. Jojoba beads are great to use. Miessence has a nice gentle jojoba bead exfoliant. Whatever you do, please, please don’t use the ground up apricot scrubs. Those just tear your skin to schreds and will worsen the condition! Oh, the agony!

Winter Skin

2009-12-15T11:59:00.000-08:00

These first questions are great for us to start with. We are deep into winter now, and these are things we all need to know.

Q: Dear Adriana, I just moved to Portland from Southern California in October and my skin is so dry, I was hoping you could recommend a good moisturizer that works with your Oregon climate.

A: Yes, it is true you will need to slightly adjust your regimen to fit our Pacific Northwest climate, but before we talk moisturizers, I would like to address the reason I believe your skin is dry in the first place.
During the summer months, even if we wear sunscreen, our skin tans and we develop a thick layer of dead skin cells. If we don’t effectively get rid of this dead skin, any moisturizer we use will simply lay on top of the dead skin, doing nothing and wasting your product!
So, before purchasing a new moisturizer, I would recommend purchasing a new exfoliant. It always comes back to exfoliation, ladies! As I mentioned before, enzymes are my favorite, because they are so gentle and effective. Hopefully you will find that once you get rid of that yucky dry skin left over from the summer, you may not need to buy a new moisturizer, the one you already have could be enough. If, though, you find it isn’t, I would recommend using the one you already have for daytime and investing in a good, rich night cream. You can always ask for samples at skincare counters and spas, then you can try them at home before investing. To find out if the product is right for your skin type, try this test: cleanse your skin and apply the moisturizer. Wait 10 minutes. Now open you’re your mouth as wide as it will go. Notice if your skin is pulling uncomfortably or if it is stretching easily. If it is uncomfortable, you need to get a moisturizer that is oil based (as opposed to water based.) and includes ingredients such as shea butter, hyaluronic acid, or glycerin. Try Jan Marini Skin Research’s Recover -E or PCA Skin’s PHaze 20 Silkcoat Balm. These moisturizers are very rich and should be enough to help your skin adjust to its new climate.

Q: Dear Adriana, Do I really have to wear sunscreen in the winter? There is no sun! And it clogs my skin up when I put it on, so what’s the point?

A: Yes. Most definitely you need to wear sunscreen in the winter. In the winter months the sun’s rotation is closer to the earth, creating stronger UV rays. “But our region is cloudy!” You say. Those pesky UV rays penetrate clouds, as well as glass, so even on a day of just driving around in your car; you must remember to protect yourself. Always, always, always.
This might blow your mind: the skin cancer rate in the Pacific Northwest is about on par with those of the rest of the country, so this proves that even though we don’t have as many months of intense sunshine as other states, we are just as exposed and the risks are the same.
Simply having an SPF factor in your make-up is not enough. The major reason being, we tend not to apply make-up on our necks and chests, which are incredibly important areas to protect.
Look for a sunscreen that contains zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. These minerals are “physical blockers,” which means they reflect the UV rays away. They are also very good for the skin and won’t clog pores.
The moisturizers these days that contain zinc oxide or titanium dioxide as its sun protection ingredient are quite good, and if you get one in a moisturizer that is oil free you shouldn’t have any problems with pore clogging. Remember, too, that just like the summer months, you want to reapply your sunscreen every 2 hours.
Even better than sunscreen in a moisturizer, my favorite sunscreen products are Sun Defense from Eminence Organics and Instant Mineral Powder Sunscreen from Peter Thomas Roth. They are both mineral powders that are applied on top of your make-up, have a sun protection factor of 30, and their handy brush and powder all-in-one tube can be thrown in your purse for super easy re-application throughout the day! Everyone needs to be carrying these. Put ‘em in your purse ladies and use ‘em!